Well, I've left the Perhentian Islands - I realised that it's largely an island for couples, or Swedes, and I found it hard to meet people. Now I'm on my way to Taman Negara, having chosen poorly - the plan was to get the Jungle train and then the boat, but upon checking the train times I didn't reckon I could make the 9:30 train, unless I headed out on the 4 pm boat, stayed a night in Kota Bharu and got it in the morning. Another advantage would have been that I could get the boat up the river, which is apparently very beautiful. So I got the bus ticket instead, moved to Senja (the fancy place at the end of the beach) for Rm 75 a night, mainly because it has 24 hr electricity and I wanted to charge all my stuff. I had to be up at half 6 for the boat, so I just read for a bit. Yesterday I got a variety of new books - Cornwell, Dostoevsky and Theroux were traded for Heinlein, Palin and Eco - I'm starting with Around The World In 80 Days, & I'm already half way through. It's strange and thrilling reading about his journey - his start at the Reform Club (where I've dined), his stay at the luxurious White Swan in Guangzhou (where I've stayed), and his use of the Hong Kong - Cheung Chao ferry & a Tokyo Capsule Hotel, both of which I've used - the last two not being such coincidences, as many thousands if not millions must have used them too.
Up at 6:30, the journey to shore was far less horrendous than the journey out, although the boat was packed to the gunwales with 20 people, compared to 5 on the way out. Upon arrival at Kuala Besut, I told some bewildered Travellers about the train to KL, which leaves at 0930 and 1910 (I think) from Wakaf Baharu, as the buses to KL are apparently full until the 17th. They hurried off gratefully, I just hope I was right. I asked the guy in the travel agent if we were going to get the boat from Kuala Tembeling into the jungle, to which he proudly replied "No! Bus all the way, no need for boat!" as if this was a positive feature of the journey. 10 of us were crammed into a minibus with all the luggage, after waiting 20 minutes for a guy who looks exactly like David Walliams doing an impression of a German tourist. The bus was the exact right size for me to wedge my back against the seat and my knees against the one in front. I was also sitting next to a horrendously sunburnt woman I saw on the island yesterday, who has amazing sunglasses marks surrounded by red, crinkly skin.
This stage of the journey lasted 4 hours or so, before we changed buses at Gua M___. Here I shun the groups of people buying Pringles & try out the little restaurant across the road. Here I am shown the options in big dishes - 3 chicken things, 1 fish, and 1 'meat'. The chicken one I choose has no more meat in it, & I am offered bits of fried neck and spine to be added to the sauce, assured it is the same meat, but I opt for the 'meat', as it is at least in bone-free chunks. Everyone else serves themselves into Banana leaves & eats with their fingers, whereas I'm served mine on a plate, with cutlery. I don't really mind too much, as it's tasty & only costs RM 5 (70p), with a can of Mirinda as well.
I'm soon ensconced on a spacious 30 seat VIP bus for the remaining 5 hours. Whilst dozing, I'm awoken by huge bumps in the road and a torrent outside. We pass through very jungly countryside, interrupted with what I can only assume are rubber, palm and maybe pineapple plantations. We also cross many swirling brown rivers, swollen from the rain, stretching off through the lush green landscape towards mist shrouded hills. As if to tease us, the bus makes a stop in Kuala Tembeling, where the boat leaves from - we pass a sign saying
Taman Negara
<--Boat | Land-->
& we unfortunately take the right fork. We've paid for entry to the park for us (RM 1) and our cameras (RM 5), and been issued with a map of Kuala Tahan, list of stuff to do, tours and accommodation. I took a brief peek around Kuala Tembeling while others were getting cash, in the vain hope of finding a clothing store - due to trees, bugs & especially leeches, it is advised to wear sturdy footwear & long trousers and sleeves when in the forest. Due to my largely beach based itinerary so far, for me this consists of white Converse, black jeans and a red cowboy shirt. I am woefully underprepared, and can only hope there is an appropriate shop somewhere in Kuala Tahan.
I have met some cool people in my dorm at Ekoton Chalets - Tony the northerner, Minnesota Sarah, Chris from Chester, who's a maths graduate working in Ayuthaya, and Dave, Chris' mate, who is a mute. Well, he actually has a bad throat and can make no sound other than laughter, but on meeting me claimed to be deaf. They invited me to dinner on a floating restaurant, then I went and spent ages on the Internet trying to sort out getting my debit card and the plane/boat/train from Bali to Sydney, which is looking like being an expensive and complex nightmare. Afterwards I met Chris and Tony in a restaurant & we swapped stories for a while, until some other English guys arrived back from a night safari, along with Sarah who was freaking out about (a) the leech she had just found and removed from her leg, and (b) the bat, later discovered to be a massive Cicada (more on those tomorrow), which was flying around our dorm.
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